Saturday, May 30, 2009

Life in Lawra





It has been 2 weeks and I’m quite settled in with my host family, the Baarus. I’m living with a family of farmers, spread out between 3 compounds about a 15 minute bike ride outside of town. The father and head of the family has 12 sons and 3 daughters. Plenty of help means plenty of land to cultivate crops, especially maize for pito (local beer) or any of other forms you can consume it (my favourite happens to be Kenke, a fermented gooey maize ball wrapped in husks and served with a soup of tomato, groundnut, meat and chili).



Our compound and backyard.

I’m sharing a compound with two of the sons, Samuel and Ahmeh. Sam is 28, a bachelor and has his fingers in many pies. He did not attend Secondary school, but has taken some agriculture courses at the local training institute. He will be going to college in Kumasi for an agric-business diploma in September but currently runs the family xylophone making business and is working very hard to get it set up as a learning centre (in which I’ll obviously be a student!). I’m hoping to help him out with some computer training to get it on the net. Sam also teaches Dagaare, the local language, to illiterate women at night as well as acting as an assistant to the social welfare program that provides a pension to vulnerable elderly farmers. Additionally, he is always helping out neighbours with their farms, especially now that dry season is coming to an end and the rains are on their way. There are always people stopping by for his advice, and he also happens to be trained as a marriage counselor. Sam is extremely warm, generous, open and sincere. He refuses to let me pay rent, but I manage to make sure we have enough food by picking up a few things everyday from town. The man is a serious inspiration. He’s planning to go back to school to study Horticulture, so we have plenty of conversation about plants and get along fantastically. I’m learning so much from him… including the traditional upper west sounds.





As the main man for the family xylophone business, he’s frequently travelling. Sam has been away for over a week and so his younger brother, Ahmeh, and I have been making it on our own. Here in Ghana, there is a lot of emphasis on family and showing respect for your elders and those who provide for you. Since I’m now the man of the compound, as well as a guest, Ahmeh goes to great lengths to make sure I’m comfortable. He constantly lets me know what he is doing, where he is going and is often trying to make my life easier by fetching the bath water from the well, doing the washing or cooking. If I was spotted doing my laundry, cooking or even farming, Ahmeh would feel embarrassed because it would seem to the rest of the community that he is not being a good host. This conflicts with my eagerness to learn to live without electricity in a rural northern Ghanaian community!

(cooking hut and garage... home to many a Hemidachylus mabovia.... common house gecko).

There is a well just outside our compound which is too tempting to drink from on a hot, dry northern Ghanaian day. Ahmeh just recently informed me that a previous guest from Argentina was hospitalized due to this well, so I have taken up biking the distance to the more reliable borehole. Once the rains come more frequently, rather than the current sporadic wind, buckets of rain and life-threatening lightening storms, there will be more bugs, more risk of contamination and maybe I’ll start taking the malaria thing more seriously. As it stands, I have not seen 1 mosquito in my area…. Although bites have started to appear in very odd areas.


Settlement in Lawra was done in such a way that farmers’ compounds are in the middle of their farms. This isn’t always the case in our district. As a result, the area surrounding the town is very crowded and animals (goats, pigs, cattle, dogs and a variety of reptiles) roam free. This means that they’re always chomping on garbage, or sprouts. Most farmers don’t tie up their animals and so there is often tension between farmers with accusations of selfishness as they let their animals feast off a neighbouring crop. In other areas, farms and compounds are separated, which means animals stay at home and aren’t so free range. Speaking of free range, there is no latrine.

Due to the overcrowded nature of settlement in the district, there are too many farmers and not enough land, presenting a monumental technology transfer problem. There is a need to develop an acceptable and appropriate technologies, infrastructure and teaching programs to transfer this technology to where it is needed. As its stands, MoFA’s biggest challenge is low adoption of technologies. In other words, Agriculture Extension Agents (AEAs) have been promoting many of the same technologies to farmers for 30 years; however the policies coming out of Accra don’t often reflect the realities of farmers so farmers don’t adopt them. Sometimes the technology doesn’t fit in with the culture of the community, and often the technology requires an investment that most farmers can’t afford to make. This means working along side farmers, getting feedback and recognizing that the current top down transfer system of extension of MoFA needs to be shifted.

What EWB has been working up here in the Upper best/West is just that. We’ve been challenging the way AEAs approach their extension services by working with them to develop new technologies that are more affordable and appropriate for farmers. Farmers need to be seen as innovative, adaptable and able to problem solve. Their indigenous technologies should be revalued, honoured and learned from to understand the benefits. AEAs are used to the transfer of technology in a lecture and demonstration style, the way that it was taught in training. They aren’t used to learning from mistakes. The innovation project is somewhat unclear by AEAs and can be helped by a pyramid of understanding through action in order to dismantle the myth that farmers are “stuck in their ways, lazy, illiterate and have given up in life”. The innovation challenge then is about finding new knowledge in the field, new adaptations to MoFA technologies that are inexpensive, appropriate and can be shared with other farmers. Examples include mixing salt and water to combat the striga parasite (a plant that literally attaches and sucks the food from another plant), mixing pepe (chilis) with cowpea to prevent destruction by weezle pests during storage.

The second part of the innovation challenge has to do with MoFA staff. From an innovation fund, 3 districts in the Upper West have submitted change projects to receive funding. These projects are ideas that MoFA staff members have submitted that they think could change the way that MoFA more efficiently and responsibly. Examples of these change projects include instead of having the monthly district meetings in the office, have them take place in field to include farmer groups. Another example involves a suggest box for AEAs to submit concerns, and establishing a committee to meet to go through the comments and work on implementing them.

As for me, I’m responsible for keeping these projects moving, and getting AEAs excited about farmer innovations and coaching them to find other ways to find solutions to farmer problems. Work is pretty rough sometimes, trying to get to the field is difficult as AEAs don’t get a fuel allowance and as planting season has just begun, they are very busy. Building trust takes time so I’ve been playing it cool, perhaps a little too cool, as I get the sense that some of them think of me as an imposition rather than an asset to the district office. Getting to know staff outside of work is a pretty good way to go when you want to build trust and if you want to get to the field.
(cooking hut)


In other news, sorry to keep this post long and wordy but you have to understand that I’m using the only computer that has internet in the district, so it’s rather slow and that makes picture uploading impossible. Bare with me in my future attempts to make things seem more visual than the dense script above! I’ve finally been able to get on to twitter. That is, I can send text messages to update my facebook status and twitter accounts simultaneously. Gary, you better get cracking on this new ICT!

Today is market day in Lawra so I’m off to get a few things for the week with my host brother. He has offered to give me a small plot of land to farm from scratch so I need to find some seed. I’ll be growing groundnut (peanut) and maize, with his help and guidance of course. My green thumbs are quivering in anticipation!
(Front door... welcome to my home!)

Love from the upper west (side).

Spencer.

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

"Nansala, how are you? We are fine! Thank you!"

I thought I would start with the little ditty that I've become very accustom to hearing. Kid's chant this saying when you walk past. It's an upper west thing. From my understanding, kids in other parts of Ghana generally just yell hello, again and again. I usually make the smaller kids/babies cry. How would you feel if you saw a tall, bearded, white hairy beast of a man come towards you?

I'm currently in Wa, the regional capital of the Upper West(/Best). I'm here with another JF and Suzanne, a long term overseas volunteer and the leader of the project we are working on up here in the UW. She's been spreading herself thin over three district and now that there are two people to join her for the next few months things are really going to get moving.

Let me tell you a little about the journey here.


We hopped on the TTC to the Toronto airport, checked in 3 hours early with Alitalia and before any of the 13 of us heading to Ghana new it we were on our way to Accra, with a layover in Rome.

Adam, Gajan, Evan and myself were determined to get into the city. Not to rub it in the faces of the other JF's who decided to stay at the airport, but we had a blast. We managed to have a little over 2 hours to play tourist. We got off the train, got on the metro, and BAM there was the Colosseum. Also managed to visit the pope in the Vatican.

Arrived in Accra without any problems, and had our first fried egg and bread which will likely be breakfast for the remainder of my stay. I miss cheese already.

The next morning we got on the bus to Tamale, the economic and administrative capital of the Northern Region of Ghana. The bus broke down halfway through the 12 hour trip and we ended up chilling at the side of the road for 4 hours before another bus showed up. Plenty of writing, card playing, reading, chatting and fear about being bitten by mosquitoes.

The first day in Tamale was spent orienting ourselves. We went on a hunt to collect a few things at the Market (malaria treatment, cloth, etc). It was an overwhelming experience so I'll likely write an entire blog on the markets alone because there is so much to share. The following day was dedicated to our sector group. We spent the day getting up to speed with our goals as a group. Most the other junior fellows that are working in the Agriculture sector will be working on the Agriculture as a Business Curriculum, helping agriculture extension agents (AEAs) to facilitate and strengthen business practices for farmer groups so as to increase their income/opportunities. I, on the other hand, and working to address the reasons one of the biggest problems AEAs are having (low adoption of technologies by engaging AEAs to think more critically about the ways they work with farmers. We want AEA's to see farmers as hardworking, innovative groups who are making wise business practices, but cannot, for a variety of reasons, adopt the technologies the ministry of food and agriculture (MoFA) via AEA's are demonstrating.

I don't want to overload you with too much information. Stay tuned for to learn more about the farmer innovation challenge that I'm working on in Lawra district.

Happy, healthy and still in honeymoon phase of my placement.
Forgive me for the lack of visuals and the scatteredness of this blog ... it's proving to be extremely difficult to get pictures/videos uploaded without some sort of malfunction. Once I get into the groove of things at work and home I'll be able to share and focus my experience better.

I'm heading up to Lawra tonight via Tro-tro... which is a sort of minibus that is crammed with people. I know very little about my community but am excited to finally root myself.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Finally Ghana way!




I'm currently sitting in the Engineers without Borders house in downtown Toronto with a day to go before heading overseas.

There are 14 of us in the Ghana-bound batch of EWB Junior Fellows (a selected role for an undergraduate Canadian that will be working for 4 months abroad in a placement with a partner Government agency or NGO). In the case of the Ghana bound group (there are roughly 16 others that will be heading to Burkina Faso, Zambia and Malawi a week after us). About 9 of us Ghana bound folks will be working in partnership with the Ministry of Food and Agriculture (MoFA) and the other bunch will focus on Governance and Rural Infrastructure, both at the district level in rural northern communities.

I’ll be working with MoFA in the upper west district of Lawra. EWB is working on something new. The two main projects are Innovation challenges at the Farmer level and at the level of MoFA. At the farmer level, we are looking to address the issue of low adoption of technology and poor farmer group sustainability and viability. Farmers are largely aware of technologies but chose not to adopt because of resource constraints or because they did not fit with the farmer’s priorities, needs and culture. With MoFA, we are working to enable district staff to identify and solve problems they face in the district.
Stay tuned for more in future weeks as I learn more about these innovation challenges and my placement!

Back in the EWB house, we are sharing a living space and an experience. Training started off a little slow and was in many ways an introduction or recap to some of the issues involved in international development. Using a variety of learning styles, many of which were very practical/hands on, we've explored rural livelihoods, power, participatory approaches/field methods, hierarchy, gender and you know, a few tips for living in rural Ghanaian communities (see picture below!). In the last couple of days, the group has really taken a shift from just scratching the surface on these issues to really challenging and engaging in a deeper way. You really learn a lot about how you work when you’re bunched together with a group of motivated, open and different people.



Our flight to Accra got bumped to tomorrow with a layover in Rome which works out great considering I didn’t bring half the stuff I needed from Halifax. I’ve got the day to tie up loose ends, pick up a few things and see a couple people (including the “co-star”, as EWB defines it).

Feeling nervous, anxious, excited, pumped and very grateful to everyone who has helped me along the way (shoutouts to the Dalhousie- EWB !

See you in Ghana!